What a year we had in 2024! Too good not to look back at the  Hebridean Adventures season. ‘Hjalmar Bjorge’ with new and regular customers alike, set out 16 times out and back to her regular cruising grounds, discovering new anchorages and returned to those old familiar spots that have given so much joy to so many guests in the past.

Our success rate for the 2024 season was amazing. Considering the summer weather of 2024 was not the best we have had. Hjalmar Bjorge and her crew managed, on the most part to get people to where they wanted to get to, or to an alternative, equally exciting destinations. Amazing coral sunsets, gloriously dark starry night skies criss crossed by golden satellites, poetic sunrises and, on several occasions, spectacular green ribbons of the Aurora Borealis, rippling in the northern sky.

Early at the start of the season, the weather gifted us a beautiful second half to April; with May carrying on this theme allowing outstanding cruises around the inner isles filled with azure blue seas, blue skies and bright sunshine that rivalled that of the Mediterranean in its warmth. In turn early viewing of wildlife  became leisurely and most pleasurable as the cetaceans seemed to be enjoying the weather as much as our guests were.

May’s good weather brought us success on our more adventurous exploits. An early endeavour in our St Kilda exploits allowed us to take advantage of a cheeky weather window. Hjalmar Bjorge’s skipper read it perfectly. We crossed a mirror, flat calm Minch to the outer isles whilst dining on Haggis, crushed roasted potatoes, mashed Swede all napped in a velvety Drambuie sauce. A rare opportunity indeed that provided an opportunity to position ourselves ready to jump across to this remote destination.

On arrival we discovered we were the first visitors of the season and even as we left, still in glorious sunshine, we were still the only vessel in Village Bay. Good weather continued to grace us for most of May, there were indeed several days of unsettled weather, but as a whole May was a good month for cruises including several more successful trips to St Kilda, (of which we will go into more detail on our next blog.)

These trips included return visits to the enchanting Monach Isles just to the west of North Uist. Then further south to the southerly end of the Outer Isles, stopping at Mingulay with its abandoned village, colonies of Puffins and its high western cliffs, teaming with seabirds.

Heading out and returning often gave us opportunities to call in at the small inner isles of Rum, Eigg, Muck, Canna, Lunga, Ulva, to name drop just some of our anchorages. Our skipper takes you on voyages to the wildlife grounds that they know will not disappoint our guests.

Days of long cruises were often broken up with sightings of wildlife. Dolphins, zipping  just ahead of our bows but done in such a leisurely looking manner in their imperceivable efforts. Minke Whales surface for short periods repeating a few times before diving deep in their continual search for food. Minke are the most common we see, but Humpbacks and Orca are also regulars to these waters.

More regular were the seabirds, Gannets diving, suicidal like, from on high. Puffins zoom past, beating their wings like ‘a man/fowl’ possessed, a wingman tight on their rear quarter. Pairs of Cormorants, less franticly, hug the seas surface, and every now and then, from a guest or guide, the cry of ‘Storm Petrel!’ may break a concentrated silence. There are countless sightings both at sea and during the many excursions ashore. Our wildlife notebook will pay tribute to the very extensive range of wildlife we saw in 2024. With the help of our guests we keep it updated daily and certainly at the end of every cruise there is a hunched gathering of guests and guides excitedly running through personal and ships lists of sightings.

One of the most exciting encounters we had this season was returning from our second visit to St Kilda, after an afternoon and evening ashore. We had a restful night and a great breakfast before the long trip back to the Outer Isles. We headed off for customary trip to the gap between Soay and Hirta. On this occasion the weather was favourable; beguiled, we languorously cruised passed the jagged southern coast of Hirta, awed by its majesty. A pod of ‘White Beaked Dolphins’ was spotted, which soon was realised to be a very large Super Pod of ‘White Beaked Dolphins!’ It was decided to count these fabulous creatures and the count soon topped 200 and, as it turned out later, one of the biggest ‘White Beaked Dolphin’ pods ever recorded.

As the Earth continued its orbit about the sun, June was soon upon us. Summer had arrived! Well not quite, the weather turned the other way, not that it would stop Hjalmar Bjorge! Not at all, she’s one tough little ship! We managed to get two more trips across to St Kilda under our belts, which meant we had made five successful trips to St Kilda before some of our nearest competitors had even attempted one. On the one occasion we failed, our skipper deemed just a bit too lumpy outside the Outer Isles. As a former coxswain of the RNLI Lifeboat out of Stornoway, we take his judgement in such matters as gospel. Instead we headed to another bird colony, on the Shiant Islands, twelve nautical miles off the east coast of Lewis.

July was seen in with a trip around the Inner Isles for a group of art enthusiasts. We took them to some of the most stunning locations, where once ashore, with the help of their tutor, they created some astonishing pieces of artwork. They were helped with the weather giving us bright sunshine for most of the week. Only on the last day did the rain return. But with a full Scottish Breakfast to see them off on their journey home, they left with full tummies and smiles on their faces.

July also saw the most adventurous of our 2024 trips. Heading forty five miles North of the ‘Butt of Lewis’ Hjalmar Bjorge  her crew with new and fabulous returning customers plus our special guest Guide and Wildlife Photographer, Chris Gomersall, reached North Rona and Sula Sgeir. Hjalmar Bjorge has made this trip annually over most of the last decade.  With Chris aboard the photography was going to be outstanding, Chris’ knowledge of wildlife and his skills at producing awesome wildlife photographs, (some of which adorn the walls of Hjalmar Bjorge’s saloon walls,) is second to none.

North Rona has been abandoned since 1844 after an infestation of rats caused the already exceedingly cruel conditions, for the Monks and hardy small community that inhabited the island, to become untenable. A place that is truly isolated, exposed and harsh it’s a place to be respected. But if you like wildlife, like we do, then it’s one of the most exciting excursions we do during a season. We are still the only company that attempts these trips annually, and we do mean attempt, as the weather conditions need to be just perfect, as this cruise is in another league.

Thankfully 2024 saw those weather conditions met and we managed to land guests ashore, this can be tricky even in the best conditions. However, a landing was made and the wildlife was not in short supply; Storm Petrels, Leach’s Petrels, Guillemots, Northern Fulmars, Great Skuas and Puffins to name but a few.

Sula Sgeir on the other hand is what its Gaelic name implies, ‘Gannet Colony.’ Here on this forty hectares of rock that rises out the North Atlantic water, Gannets swarm above you like a swarm of giant white bees. Only five miles from North Rona, you know you are getting close because the smell of the guano is often strong on the wind. Famous for the now regulated, Guga Hunts from Lewis, forty miles to the south, where the inhabitants of that distant island come to hunt young Gannets.

August saw the weather turn yet again, the gales returned and our cruise around the Minch in looking for Cetaceans and Sunsets became a bit of a dodge the weather trip, but with our guest guides Megan McCubbin and James Stevens along with our keen guests, the wildlife was captured on film and logged in our wildlife book. Seals, Common Dolphins, Bottlenose Dolphins, Porpoise and Minke Whales were all seen and a day trip ashore took our guests around Lewis during a particularly nasty gale. But not to be kept tied up for long, Hjalmar Bjorge left Stornoway once more making our way around the Minch looking for whatever may present itself for our observing pleasure.

It was hard to contemplate that September had arrived, our last month of this enthralling season. Out once again looking for local wildlife and end of summer walks and scenery of the islands and seas; with no set destination this time allowing us to go where the weather would offer us the best conditions and views. On our following adventure we were joined by long time guest and guide, Marc Calhoun. Mark has written several books about the Hebridean Isles, its people and habitats. His knowledge of the history and life of this area is, outstanding. Living in Seattle does not deter Marc from flying halfway around the world often joining Hjalmar Bjorge and offering his extensive knowledge of these islands to our guests. A copy of his latest book can be found in Hjalmar Bjorge’s, compact, but enlightening, library.

Our final cruise was nothing short of a blinder, heading southwards we were joined once more by James Stevens and Billy Heaney. When these two young wildlife specialists join us, spaces aboard Hjalmar Bjorge always fill up fast. Their sharp eyes, photographic skills and expert use of drones is masterful. From Crinan we headed around Jura, had lunch at the Garvellachs and continued up to the Treshnish Isles, west of Mull. The weather had turned, again, but this time in our favour for this glorious week. We managed to reach the Small Isles and anchored off Eigg. The sightings came in thick and fast, cameras of guest and specialists alike showing the wonderful creatures of this area. Drones were launched and jaw dropping footage was jaw dropping amazing. Everything from Golden Eagles to Minke Whales were observed, this, the weather and the journey made our final cruise one to round off this phenomenal season.

Our thanks to the crew members of Hjalmar Bjorge, who put such above and beyond efforts into our trips to get our guests to where they want to visit and their skill at getting them safely to the best places to observe the regions outstanding wildlife. In their abilities to make the cruises as comfortable as is possible and in keeping our guests safe, fed and warm. Also, to our guest guides whose knowledge and skills are exceptional and always make the trips they attend something super special.

Our biggest thanks are to you, our guests, for allowing us to take you to the magical areas of the Hebridean Islands and showing you the majesty of these islands, their beauty and breathtaking scenery. Of course, not forgetting the beautifully alluring wildlife that inhabit, fly, swim and dwell in and around these inspiring locations.

And! The 2025 cruise calendar still has some availability so if you’d like to come and join us on an amazingly uplifting adventure this year, don’t leave making your choices for too long. 2025 is going to be an exceptional year for cruising with us at Hebridean Adventures.

Day 1: We board at 14:30 after which you’ll be shown your cabins and have a short talk about shipboard life and safety brief given by our skipper as we indulge in homemade scones with cream and bramble jam. We slip our moorings at around 3.30pm and head up the Sound of Mull, with all its exciting wildlife, amazing scenery whilst we’re absorbing the atmosphere of this magical area. All this time Hjalmar Bjorge’s powerful twin engines propels us to our first anchorage.

On most of our other cruises we would stop near the top of the sound, dropping our anchor in a beautiful, sheltered loch or maybe pick up our permanent mooring in the beautiful harbour of Tobermory on the first night of a cruise. But not this time.

On a ‘Focus on St Kilda’ cruise we want to be ready to take advantage of every opportunity to get you to that magical archipelago that’s on your bucket list or of your ambition. Exiting the Sound of Mull we pass Ardnamurchan Lighthouse, heading northwest to the Isle of Rum, the largest of the Small Isles.

Here we dropped anchor until the morning, I was already beginning to relax with my favourite tipple a Gin and Tonic, whilst the chef produced our ‘Welcome to Scotland’ evening meal. Starting with pan fried local Scallops with Black Pudding in a garlic butter. Followed by the best Haggis, buttery mashed Potatoes, smashed Neeps/Swede all served in a velvety Drambuie Sauce. Thankfully I’ve still room to have dessert; a traditional Cranachan. Its basically cream, oats, Raspberries and Whiskey. Followed by Coffee/Tea and chocolates, to help with digestion, of course.

Day 2: The weather Gods are with us and this morning it’s an early start. For me there is nothing that matches a breakfast roll at sea. Cool sea breeze, bright sunlight and bacon in a roll with HP sauce. Others are enjoying their alternative fillings; but I like my bacon.

From Rum to the Sound of Harris is roughly 50 nautical miles and we are all on deck some of us have binoculars, some are on the bow, there’s a couple on the upper deck and one lady is reading the newspaper in the saloon. We pass south of Skye and north of Canna and steam across the Sea of the Hebrides, great chances of cetaceans and seabirds. The first sign we get of the dolphins was from the Bow, someone shouted Dolphins and everyone was pointing excitedly. From the port beam came several Common Dolphins leaping through the water towards us. In moments they were next to us leaping in and out heading towards the bow. Soon enuf there’s five dolphins lazily swishing their tails keeping pace with us on the bow wave and obviously enjoying themselves as much as we were watching them.

They stayed with us for ten minuets eventually peeling off one by one. After they left people were popping in to the saloon for a tea or coffee, and a choice from a splendid array of biscuits. Catching up with dolphin photos whilst warming up. Meanwhile the bird experts were in looking up Petrols in one of the many books from our limited but comprehensive on-board library.

At lunch we were served up a freshly made, comforting hot, vegetable soup with trays of ham and Cheese sandwiches as we pass through the Sound of Harris. Warmed up and topped ready for the enthralling trip out into the North Atlantic, next stop is Village Bay.

As we leave the Sound of Harris the Sea becomes a bit lumpier as we head into a westerly wind. The bow was soon abandoned after a couple of waves spray over the top but Hjalmer Bjorge has plenty of other deck space to lookout from. It is not long before we glimpse the silhouette of the archipelago on the horizon. Somewhat hazy, but unmistakable. As the bird count grew the view also grew as time passed Inside I sat and read up on St Kilda and its fascinating history from the small, comprehensive, library.

Passing Levenish Stack the Village Bay and the dome shaped, dry stone Cleiteans, used by the inhabitants for storage that dot the quadrangle slopes surrounding the village became a lot more real. The excitement is evident and people dash below getting ready for a short excursion ashore. We entered Village Bay, virtually the only safe anchorage around Hirta. After the anchor is dropped and the skipper was happy we were secured the crew had the tender down lickety split and we were soon ashore you ashore being briefed by the resident Ranger of St Kilda. After learning the does and don’ts, we were given time to take a wander through the village or stroll up the hill. With a reminder that, dinner was at 7:30 and that we were to be collected at 7pm. Giving us time for a hot shower and a change of clothes. Once on board I showered and had a Gin and tonic with a bit of lime which I pleasantly sipped on whilst admiring the fabulous views.

Tonight we started with Portobello Mushrooms, stuffed with Leaks and a Scottish Blue cheese. For the main, Hake, we were told a sustainable cousin of the Cod and, apparently, nearly always on Hjalmer Bjorges menu. Served in a Soy, Butter, Tomato sauce, with Samphire and Vegetable Lentils. The samphire was delicious, a first for me and all followed by Coffee/Tea with mints.

Day 3: The next mornings breakfast, was porridge, rich and creamy and I was later surprised to learn Vegan! Yogurt with dried fruits, nuts and seeds. Followed by Sausages, Hash Browns and Grilled Tomatoes. Toast and an array of preserves Honey, Peanut Butter and Marmite. The crew and chef had them cleaned away by the time I came back up ready for my days adventure. A packed lunch of sandwiches with choices of filling, Crisps, biscuits, fruit and chefs homemade energy balls. A carton of juice and fresh water to fill our bottles up with.

We were on Hirta by 10:30 and we were told that there would be pick ups at 2pm 4pm and 7 pm. Unless the weather is turning for the worst or they saw enough of us grouped on the quay to warrant a pick -up. We also had a group walkie-talkie to chat to the boat for any emergencies. I had a great day wandering through the village once again, its history and mystique coddling me in memorising blanket of awe. I then followed the road up and up into the low cloud that seemed to have settled there that morning. The military installation was fenced off, ugly and out of place. I then wandered around the top and head down towards the higher most Cleiteans. Strange, dank and muddy I didn’t care for it, but I’m guessing they worked, due to the amount the villagers constructed. From there I walked to the gap where the sea has cut off the southern arm that creates Village bay. The cacophony of the birds here was astounding, never had I seen the like. You’d have thought you’d upset a Hornets nest the numbers of birds that flew overhead.

I opted for the 4pm pick up as someone mentioned chef was baking a cake. As it happens I’m glad I did. I got back to a warm dry shelter , took a hot shower and had a cup of Hot Chocolate with slices of Lemon Drizzle Cake temptingly awaiting on the saloon table to be devoured. I had my piece and a second as someone didn’t want theirs. I admit I was a bit greedy as I pulled out two Garibaldi biscuits from the bottomless biscuit barrel.

Dinner was served at 7:45 tonight as there was a rain storm about 6pm drenching the 7pm returners who took a bit longer than usual to get ready. It didn’t seem to both chef. Tonight was ‘Venison Stiffado.’ A rich Greek stew with tomato and cinnamon served with Lemony Greek Oven Potatoes, and Green Beans done the Greek way. This was followed by a Heather Honey Panacotta and Shortbread with a berry compote.

Day 4: Our next day after a relaxed breakfast of more porridge and yogurt which was followed today by Scrambled Eggs and Smoked Salmon. After which we hauled anchor about 9 ish and headed off around the island of Hirta, the weather was kind and the skipper was going to try and cruise through the narrow passage between the isles. On rout we were offered amazing scenery of the great cliffs, today not enshrouded in cloud and different views of the island.
The gap starts as a wide V shape, then narrows in, with some splendid rock formations to squeeze by. You can understand why the weather haste be good, it is a narrow channel indeed. But what struck me, standing on the Bow was the difference in the sea, there was literally a line discerning South side water to North Side water.
There were sea birds a plenty, Ganets were the ones doing the Kami Kazi style dives after spotting fish from up high their feeding is fascinating to watch. Unfortunately no there were no ceterceains to be seen. In the near distance lay Boreray, Stac Lee and Stac An Amin. In the sunlighlight the stacks gleamed white the jagged peaks of Borerays cliff tops were black against the blue sky.
We steamed across to this world that time truly had forgotten. The birds numbered in their tens of thousands the white colour on the stacks shimmered as they loomed closer, the birds now surrounded us on all levels. Swarming above us, diving into the depths and like a continual replay of ‘Topgun’ pairs flew past at eye level, sea level and all levels in-between.
Gannets, Puffins and a plethora of other species either in the sky or nesting on the cliff faces of these rocks. Created a noise that could be heard well above Hjalmer Bjorges own noise. We got up close and personal a calm lightly swelling sea allowing us the privilege.

An all incredible wonder to behold indeed. We passed beneath the cliffs strewn with nesting seabirds calling out, screeching out their warnings. The clear waters swill around the caves in Borerays cliffs whose walls drop vertically down into the deep, cold Atlantic waters. There is only so much time to look at so much going on in so little a space. We come to the eastern edge of Boreray and depart the archipelago heading east towards our next stop.

From here we head back to the outer Isles, with the weather still holding in our favour we head to the ‘Monach Isles.’ It’s another long cruise, with plenty of time for looking for cetaceans, birds and other interesting nautical wildlife. Popped in to the saloon for a break, a cup of tea or coffee, a wee raid on the eternal biscuit barrel or fruit bowl. All of a sudden there’s a call of ‘Dolphins! Dolphins Portside. Everyone rushes out, even the chef! To Port we see distant splashes and dark form raiding out the water and disappearing once more. ‘They’re feeding.’ says chef, ‘They’ll be too busy to come play.’ With that he turned and headed back in. I stayed out to watch the creatures who bring so much joy. Chef was right, they were feeding and didn’t bother with us.

An hour later chef brought out a Banana Bread with butter awaiting in small ramekins. It took us five hours and our skipper expertly dodged between reefs to reach our sheltered anchorage. It was a bit late tonight but first thing in the morning we were going ashore on the Monarchs. This seabird protectorate is a total contrast to St Kilda. Lying just off the coast of North Uist these low lying islands with beautiful white sandy beaches, tall grasses wave in the breeze and the white surf breaks away from the turquoise shallows onto the crisp white beaches.

Tonight I sat with Colin and Jess, a couple I had befriended and we shared some nibbles and a bottle of White Rioja. Tonights starter is a homemade Smoked Mackerel Pate with Oatcakes and Anchovy and Coriander Butter. Followed by Coq Au Vin with Dauphinoise Potatoes and a dessert of Banoffee Pie to finish off with. Coffee and chocolates to finish. I had a small dram of 12 year old Oban whiskey before tottering off to bed.

Day 5: Breakfast followed by a couple of hours ashore. There seemed to be plenty of fabulous landing spots; but were were warned, it could be a wet landing so I carried my socks and boots. You can walk them in a matter of hours we were told and we did. Our tender picked us up at midday after a morning walking along rocky beaches. Some headed into the long grass and many watched for birds like Manx Shearwaters and Storm Petrols. I, not being a birder, saw lots of Grey Seals.

Chef had prepared a lunch of Tuna Pasta Bake and several different salads on serving platters along with Garlic Bread. All tucked into it eagerly and I discovered Jess was a Vegetarian. Chef had prepared her slight variations of our meals each night. Leaving out any meats. Happily though she ate fish and she tucked into the bake along with the rest of us.

This afternoon we are going to Mingulay, one of the southern most islands in the outer islands chain. Home to an abandoned village and a huge family of Seals who are watched over by a colony of Puffins. We arrive at the western cliffs just before dinner, I cannot believe the countless birds flying off the cliffs. It’s not quite the St Kilda stacks, but it’s not far off it. I’m told they’re mainly Guillemots and Razorbills; but I definitely saw those hard flapping wings of Puffins.

The skipper keeps us close in for a while before before we head into the Sound of Berneray then around to our anchorage in Mingulay Bay. A sight to beholds greets us as what looks like a wall of seals lines the white sandy beach. We drop anchor and within minuets the table is being set, small nibbles in bowls are being offered around and there is another bottle of wine for the three of us. This time it’s a Merlot. Dinner is served at 8pm due to the skipper keeping our birding guest extremely happy by hanging around the westerly cliffs. Tonight it is Venison Sausages served in an opulent onion gravy, creamy mashed potatoes and a side of Peas Ala France’. Followed by Eaton Mess with a disc of Tablet. (A Scottish version of Fudge.)

Day5: I had three glorious hours ashore, wandering through the remains of a village and sitting amongst the Puffins from where we can see across the white sandy beach, the seals nowhere to be seen this morning. Then, just as we got back aboard a Minky Whale appeared at the southern mouth of the bay not more than 200 meters away from us. Nobody could believe it! It slowly moved across the mouth of the bay heading north. On its third dive it disappeared and the anchor commenced its slow steady retrieval.

Lunch was on the go and due to the smooth nature of the sea. It was mirror flat! Chef served up a delightful Creamy bean and vegetable soup flavoured with Herbs de Provence; there was a green Salad and a couple of Baked Camembert with Boiled Baby Potatoes, Carrot Batons and Bread Sticks.

We arrive at Gunner Sound around 4 pm slowing down as we pass between Col and Tiree. With a couple of sightings of Porpoise and another Minki Whale, this time in the distance, so we had had a quiet crossing, some of my fellow travellers had gone to bed. But I stayed up reading my book in the saloon the mirror calm had disappeared and a light breeze had started. On the eastern side of Gunner Sound we found Basking Sharks, two for sure and maybe three. We slowed eventually drifting the skipper gently holding station with the props.

These things took me by surprise they were huge! I mean huge!! Thank goodness they do not eat people. After the encounter we had all agreed that one of them was at least 15 feet, 5 meters, long. Its brethren was another 2 meters again. When we head inside again there is an Apple Cake all sliced up ready as an offering. We all tuck in.

Turning northeast we pass Lunga, our destination for tomorrow morning, and we anchor behind Ulva, an island that is only just an island on Mulls west coast. Tonight Chef has Asparagus wrapped in Palma Ham and a drizzle of Hollandaise sauce to start followed by Plaice in a Sauce Vierge with Dutchess Potatoes and a Ratatouille.

Day6: We swing safely on our mooring overnight, by dawn the white clouds drift across a blue sky. Breakfasting on Porridge, Boiled eggs today as we want to get ashore on Lunga as quick as possible.
From there we head south for about 9 miles and drop an anchor off Lunga. The day trip boats are just arriving as we do. We’re told that’s good news. Apparently the Puffins have learned that if the humans are about the predators stay away. Plus we used their pontoons to go ashore which is great. according to the crew it’s a bit tricky here with a rocky landing. But they said just take your time its worth the effort, and they guarantee once ashore its a a wildlife lovers paradise.

We climb out the tender and onto these temporary pontoons, the day trip crews are very friendly and we get ashore without much fuss. After two hours we head back down to the waiting tender. I have been so close to a Puffin I could have touched it. I also saw a Hare lying on a rock in the sun! What an extraordinary morning. We now head south steaming to Staffa for a look at Fingles Cave and its amazing Basalt Rock formations.

The weather is favourable we have time to land Landing was quite easy as it had a concrete quay and there was a Ranger ashore to keep us and the day trippers in line. I walked around the narrow ledge using the hexagonal rock formation like a life size board game steps. Into the cave the view is glorious the rock formations rising from the clear water like the pipes of an organ. After climbing back aboard the tender the crew take us back to the cave and we get a spectacular sea level viewing. All we can talk about is seeing this magnificent glory of geological Earth from two angles. How lucky were we with the weather.

Back aboard, a late lunch is served on the go, Mushroom Risotto with a Salad and Garlic Bread. Down the Sound of Iona past the famous Abbey towards the quay, for a third time today the anchor splashes and we area away in the tender. Landing next to the Ferry quay on a pontoon we have till seven tonight when they’ll come back to pick us up. Or we can call on the walkie-talkie if we wish to come back earlier. She head to the beaches on the west side of this island, others head to the Abbey. I head to the shops and find a nice silver necklace with a viking ship hanging from it. From there I head to the abbey, it’s a small island and nowhere is far away. A walk around it and I head to the north tip of the isle. Here I find a group of people whale watching, although in this case they’ve seen some Bottlenose Dolphins feeding just off shore. We had been told there was a good chance we might see Bottlenose Dolphins around this area.

Back aboard I put my newspaper in my cabin then headed back up top. There was a great cafuffel on the bow and I found Colin pointing at Bottle Nose Dolphins leaping infant of a Fishing Trawlers Bow wave. What a great end to a great day. Tonight we were offered Chefs Chicken Tikka Masala, with Pilau Rice, Popadoms, homemade chutneys dips and Naan bread. Jess had Sweet Potato and Chickpea version. Followed by an amazing board of Scottish cheeses, Dates, Grapes, Walnuts and Celery

Day 7: We pass around the Ross of Mull joined briefly once more by these large playful creatures, they leaped through our bow wave and effortlessly kept pace with us. But after ten minuets or so they headed off south. Maybe they were hungry.

We traverse the south coast of Mull with its remarkable coastline, here I couldn’t get over how pink the rocks looked. No sun today, yet the rocks still had a pink Hugh. Further on the cliffs rose upwards and we were in Eagle territory. So here coastlines incredible cliffs there was a good chance of Eagles. We saw two, but, in fact, I actually saw one, (a White Tailed Eagle sitting on a rock.) I had gone below to read the paper and missed the second; more fool me!

We arrived at Loch Spelve, anchorage about seven. Here we were told there are excellent chances to see Otters and Eagles. Eagles we saw, three as we came through the Lochs narrow entrance they were circling over a hill in the distance; apparently they were Golden Eagles.. After the anchor was dropped out came the nibbles and the drinks began to flow. An evening meal of… Hot smoked Salmon with a Beetroot salsa and a Horse Radish Mayonnaise with chives to begin. Then Balmoral Chicken, (Haggis Stuffing,) wrapped in Streaky Bacon with Mashed Carrots and Swede. With Champ potatoes, in a white Onion sauce. Jess had a golden baked Cauliflower, followed by a dessert of Sticky Toffee Pudding with a Rum, Coffee, Butterscotch Sauce and Finely a smaller yet well stacked cheese board with dried fruits, and chocolates. I had an after-dinner tipple of 12 year old Jura.

Day 8 Our final morning was a full Scottish breakfast, apparently to help get us home; but was to be served on the go. The anchor was up by 07:30 and as we reached the narrow channel to exit the Loch we slowed down. Here we found Otters, swimming or playing on the shoreline and one actually swam towards us! We hung around happily watching these furry cuties before we started back to Oban. Breakfast lived up to its name and we arrived in Oban getting in, in plenty of time for those catching trains and busses like myself.

I said fond farewells to my new friends and the crew who had looked after us so well. We had dashed to those mystical islands of the St Kilda archipelago struck lucky with the weather, and saw a myriad of wildlife both in the air and in the sea.
Back in Oban the world suddenly seemed very full again, after all those secluded anchorages and remote islands. But I had already started planning my next trip. I quite fancied the exploratory cruise of the outer island chain, cruising the remote islands and Lochs from the south to the north. Or the other one I fancied was the Orkney Islands, I’ve never been that far north and it included Fair Isle too. I should read up on my birds too; but then again…